Transition (Corn-Pumpkin Soup)
“It’s the last of the summer corn,” Sam at the Wright’s Farm booth said. “I’m surprised it’s even here right now.”
I bought three ears, a delicata squash, and an acorn and honeynut squash from Stoneberry Farm next door. Harlem Valley Homestead’s peppers beckoned in their twisted red skins. Transition time at the farmers’ market, remnants of summer at the threshold of fall.
I’m in transition too. I feel like “a racecar with the brakes on,” as public speaking coach Bill Hoogterp described me once, almost 10 years ago while I was working at Facebook. I have this vision of where I want to go now – deeper into food and community and my own creative process – and I am the only thing standing in my way. It’s like wanting to cross a street and feeling like I’m dragging my legs under me. Part of me knows that what’s on the other side, and the crossing itself, is perfectly safe. Another part of me is terrified to lose all the space I’ve created for myself.
So, Transition Soup. The way for me to move through the season is to cook it. And eat it.
First, the stock. I had been preparing for this recipe, even if I didn’t know yet what it would be, and had frozen three corn cobs and a bunch of garden celery tops. Those went into the pot, along with the fresh cobs I just bought, kernels shaved off and saved for a later soup step. Two lobes of garlic. Bay leaves (not the ones I used to pick on my hikes in San Carlos, sadly). A piece of kombu, and three dried chiles de árbol I brought back from Sedona. A large pinch of kosher salt. Water to cover all of it.
It bubbled for an hour while I did other things. When I returned, it was medicinally bitter from the celery, and almost too spicy from the chiles. I kept going, some mixture of faith and curiosity urging me forward. I diced an onion, the peppers, sautéed them in half a stick of butter, and added the fresh shucked corn. Now the fun part: My husband had made pumpkin chocolate bars from a NYT Cooking recipe earlier in the week and left half a can of pumpkin in the fridge; I added that too, and suddenly the pot glowed orange like that was the color it was waiting for. In went the delicata and honeynut squash, skins on, already roasted and dusted with cilantro from a lunch I’d made earlier in the week.
I ladled the stock into the soup like I was making risotto or béchamel, letting the vegetables absorb the liquid before I added more. When the consistency looked right, I tasted it. The sweetness of the vegetables had calmed the spicy bitterness of the stock. It wanted salt, and some potatoes, but other than that it was ready.
I topped the soup with more cilantro, scallions, sliced radishes leftover from taco night, tangy farmers’ cheese. I swallowed the alchemy of transition, soup today, another form tomorrow.
Recipe as feeling: Transition (Corn-Pumpkin Soup)
-
Bring forward what’s worth keeping from the season passing.
-
Include ingredients from the season now beginning.
-
Observe and adjust ingredients to find new balance.
-
Make the experience your own.
Actual recipe
Corn-Pumpkin Soup
Serves 6-8. This version is vegetarian; use oil instead of butter for a vegan version.
INGREDIENTS:
~For the stock~
6 corn cobs (kernels removed), fresh or frozen
1 bunch celery tops or parsley, fresh or frozen
2 bay leaves, dried
2 lobes garlic, skins on
1 piece dried kombu
3 dried chiles (optional)
1 large pinch Kosher salt (<1 tbsp)
Water to cover (at least 8 cups)
~For the soup~
~2 cups of fresh corn kernels, shaved from 3 cobs of corn
1 onion, diced
3 sweet red peppers, diced
½ stick (4 tbsp.) unsalted butter (substitute olive oil for vegan version)
1 tsp. ground cumin
2 medium potatoes, skins on, washed and chopped into 1-inch cubes
2 cups squash, roasted or raw, skins on
1 cup canned pumpkin
Salt and pepper to taste
Crunchy colorful toppings, such as sliced scallions, cilantro, radishes, roasted pumpkin or squash seeds, tangy soft cheese
Add all stock ingredients to a large pot with enough water to cover the ingredients. Bring to a boil over high heat, skim off any foam that rises to the surface (optional - this makes the soup less cloudy), and reduce heat to a simmer so that the stock is gently bubbling. Leave it to simmer for an hour with the lid off.
When the stock is done, in another heavy-bottom pot such as a dutch oven, melt butter. Add onion and pepper to the melted butter, season with salt, and sauté until translucent, about 8 minutes. Add fresh corn kernels and more salt. Add the cumin, and toss the mixture until the cumin is toasted and fragrant and the corn is starting to sweat. Add the potatoes and the squash, sauté for another few minutes, and then add the canned pumpkin. Mix well and start ladling in the stock, letting the vegetables absorb some liquid before you add more.
Eventually, you’ll add most or all of the liquid, and the soup will be a consistency that balances solids and liquids to your liking. Simmer until potatoes and squash are cooked through, about 15 minutes. Taste and add salt and pepper if desired. Serve hot with crunchy toppings. Freezes well in airtight container.
Published October 12, 2022
If you’d like new posts delivered to your inbox, you can subscribe via Substack. There’s no charge, just your participation.